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The Eastern Anatolian Region |
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The Toros (Taurus) Mountains paralleling Turkey's southern
border, and the Black Sea Mountains in the north meet to form a mighty range
which defines the country's eastern border. The tremendous diversity of the
eastern and southeastern lands surprises travelers: the red ochre plateau of
Erzurum; the forests, waterfalls, and green pastures of Kars and Agri; the
permanent snow-cap on biblical Mount Agri (Ararat); and the immense Lake Van
with its deep blue waters. Dwellings and ways of life also vary greatly in this
large region. For example, small, earth-roofed houses, built close to the ground
typify Kars. Despite a generally austere life, the people of Kars are generous
and hospitable.
The region's long and turbulent history has left monuments to
its various civilizations: Byzantine monasteries and churches, Seljuk mausoleums
and caravanserais and elegant Ottoman mosques and hilltop citadels. To the
inveterate traveler and lover of adventure, this region of Turkey fascinates,
astonishes and informs.
From Erzincan to Dogubayazit
From Malatya to Hakkari
From Erzincan to Dogubayazit
The great trans-Anatolian axis road, is the most direct route
between Ankara and the Iranian border, and passes through Sivas, Erzincan,
Erzurum, Agri and Dogubayazıt.
Agri
Erzincan
Erzurum
Igdir
Kars
Agri
Agri, a provincial capital on a 1,650-meter-high plateau,
takes its name from the mountain which looms over it . The pleasant Balik (Fish)
lake to the northeast, not surprisingly has plenty of fish restaurants serving
local delicacies. Thermal springs bubble up all over the area. For those who
want hardy outdoor events, a visit the Bubi Dagi Ski Center, 20 km southwest of
Agri, will provide a few days of snow sports.
Do not miss the spectacular Ishak Pasa Palace, only 6
km from Dogubayazit. Ishak Pasa, Ottoman governor of the province,
constructed the palace in the 17th century with a mixture of architectural
styles. Nearby you can see a bas-relief of an Urartian king, and a rock tomb
from the ninth century B.C.
Near Dogubayazit, Turkey's most scenic natural
monument, Mt. Agri rises to a height of 5,137 meters. To see the place
where it is believed that Noah's Ark came aground, you can begin your
trek at Üzengili village, 25 km
east of Doğubayazıt. Be sure to try the local dessert, asure
(Noah's Pudding), believed to have first been made by
Noah's wife from the last bits of food in the ark.
Erzincan
Erzincan, the principal city of its province, lies 688 km
east of Ankara on a fertile plain. The highly-decorated and hand-fashioned
copperware of Erzincan maintains a long tradition in the area's fame for
metalwork. Bolkar, a ski slope 40 km to the west, provides facilities for
winter sports enthusiasts.
Many of the magnificent bronze objects in the Museum of
Anatolian Civilizations in Ankara were found at the nearby Uranian site of Altintepe,
east of Erzincan. At Tercan, the round 12th-century mausoleum
of Mama Hatun with its beautifully carved stone portal is worth a detour off
the main road. The best place for rafting and canoeing is at nearby Karanlik
Bogaz. You will also want to go on a photo safari to take in the natural
beauty of the area.
Erzurum
Erzurum, 193 km east of Erzincan and the largest city in
eastern Anatolia, sprawls on a high plateau at an altitude of 1,950 meters. As
you enter the city, the large Aziziye monument commemorating the
Turkish-Russian war will catch your eye.
Although the collection in the archaeological museum reveals
much of the city's history and ancient origins, it is Erzurum's architecture
which is in fact the best picture of its past. The city walls and fortress are
reminiscent of the period of Byzantine rule. Of particular importance are the
remaining Seljuk buildings - brilliant examples of a fascinating aesthetic. The Ulu
Mosque, built in 1179, has an unusual form with seven wide naves. The Çifte
Minareli Medrese, or theological college built by the Seljuk Sultan Alaeddin
Keykubat in 1253, astonishes with elaborate stone carvings on its portal and its
majestic double minarets. Behind the Çifte Minareli Medrese stands the Üç
Kümbetler, a group of three tombs, the most notable of which is that of
Emir Saltuk. While wandering around the city, notice the local black stone
(Erzurum Oltu Tasi) which is used in jeweler. A road through
splendid mountain scenery leads to the winter sports resort of Palandöken,
only 6 km from Erzurum. This center has a number of hotels as well as the
longest ski run and the best snow quality in Turkey, making it a favorite haunt of expert skiers.
Igdir
The city of Igdir in the same named province stands on a
large, fertile plain where fruit and, unusual for this geographical region,
cotton grow. The Bible relates that when the flood waters receded, Noah
and his family descended from Mt. Agri (Ararat) toward
the fertile plain. From here, their progeny most likely settled to the south and
west along the Fırat (Euphrates) and Dicle (Tigris) rivers, establishing
the second generation of mankind. From this plain, you
have the best view of Mount Agri. Monuments to visit near the city include
Uranian rock monuments, a 13th century Seljuk caravanserai and the Karakale
(Black Castle).
Kars
Kars (212 km northeast of Erzurum) stands at an altitude of
1,750 meters and has played an important role in Turkish history. It was at the
center of the Turko-Russian War. The Russian legacy can still be seen in much of
the town's architecture. The lower city unfolds at the foot of an impressive
Seljuk fortress from the 12th century. Kars is particularly known for
its distinctive kilims and carpets, and it retains a strong heritage of folk dancing.
Visitors always seem to enjoy this traditional entertainment. On the mountain
pastures, villagers produce excellent Kaşar cheese and delicious honey.
About 42 kilometers east of the city on the ancient Silk
Road, the medieval Armenian capital of Ani (Ocakli)
lies mostly in ruins. Impressive fortified walls still encircle the ruins of
numerous churches, mosques and caravanserais. The extent to which the large
churches are still standing after a thousand years will amaze you. Sarıkamış
(53 km southwest of Kars) is a ski center with resort hotels set in a scenic
pine forest.
From Malatya to Hakkari
The most direct route to this region is the Central Anatolian
Highway that passes through Kayseri, Malatya, Elazig, Bingöl, Mus, Van and on
to Iran, via Hakkari.
Bitlis
Elazig
Malatya
Van
The lively city of Bitlis, an important center of tobacco production, stands in the middle of a green oasis. The city's architecture uses the local dark stone, and the stone monuments include the Serefhan Medrese, the 12th-century Ulu Mosque, the Seljuk Gökmeydani Mosque and the Ottoman Serefiye Mosque. From Tatvan on the western shore of Lake Van, you can take a passenger and train ferry across the water to Van. The ruins of Ahlat are 44 km north of Tatvan on the western shore of Lake Van. The ruins of this once-important city of Turkish art and culture are scattered today among more recent constructions. Modern Ahlat provides lakeside tourist accommodation, beach facilities and restaurants.
Elazig
Elazig, founded in the 19th century, lies on a
plain in the shadow of a mountain crowned with the ancient citadel of Harput.
Destruction wrought by several earthquakes and the relatively recent
construction of Elazığ has led to most of the
population of Harput deserting it for the modern city. Several Seljuk mosques
remain, however, which are worth visiting. The Keban and Karakaya Dams on the
Firat river have created huge artificial lakes, dramatically altering the
surrounding environment. Twenty-five kilometers south of Elazig, the lovely and
tranquil Hazar Lake invites relaxation.
Malatya
Malatya is a busy city situated on a fertile plain at the
foot of the Anti-Taurus Mountains. The Archaeology Museum houses new finds from
the Lower Fırat region that
date from the Neolithic and Chalcolithic ages. Next to the
city museum, you can shop in at the bazaar where an entire passageway of shops
is devoted to copperware. In Malatya, the apricot growing center of Turkey, it
is possible to sample many delicious apricot confections as well as other fresh
and dried fruit. The two small towns which pre-date the establishment of
present-day Malatya are easy expeditions. Aslantepe, 7 km away, was the
capital of a Hittite state in the first millennium B.C.
Van
At Van Iskelesi (Van Harbour), friendly tea
gardens and restaurants invite you for a break. Edremit, a holiday resort
center 14 km to the southwest, has good beaches, swimming and camping. In the
same direction is Gevas, where you can visit a Seljuk cemetery
with numerous decorated headstones, and the lovely Halime Hatun Mausoleum.
Lake Van, the largest lake in Turkey is at an altitude of 1,720 meters,
and is ringed by beautiful mountains. You can circle the lake, visiting several
ancient Uranian sites as well as other places that represent the legacies of the
various peoples who inhabited the area. Some of the islands in Lake Van have
monasteries and churches built on them. No doubt the remote location offered
seclusion to the resident religious communities. Forty-one kilometers southwest
of Van, Akdamar Island (a half-hour sail from shore) is the most
important of these. On the island stands the 10th century Church
of the Holy Cross, now a museum, whose stone walls are richly carved with
Old Testament scenes and figures. After sightseeing, swimmers and picnickers can
enjoy themselves around the island's almond groves. If you have time, also visit
Carpanak Island to enjoy its landscape and to wander around the 12th-century
church, which has now been converted into a museum.
