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Circle Tour of Southern Ireland |
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Here is a suggested driving trip through South Ireland. The trip is planned for about a week (7 days), but it can be adjusted to fit your time schedule. Hopefully you will have more time than a week and I would not even attempt the entire trip in less than 5 nights. Be sure to check everything out yourself as you may want to do things other than what I have suggested. However, this should give you several suggestions and things to think about. I would also recommend you purchase a Michelin Map #986 if you plan to drive.
CLICK HERE to order Michelin's Map # 986
Great Britain and Ireland. You should also carry a good guidebook with you. I rather like Fodor's Ireland which you can order now.
CLICK HERE to order
Fodor's Ireland. For the purposes of this particular road trip I will assume you will be beginning your drive in Dublin. (Guide to Dublin) However, it would be possible to pick up the trip anywhere along the circle that comprises the tour. For instance, if you are flying into Shannon you can just take up the tour there. Well, shall we get going? |
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Dublin to Limerick with an overnight in Limerick.
Up this morning to begin the drive through Ireland. Leave the Dublin area on the N7 (It becomes the M7 for a little ways when you travel around the town of Nass.) with your first stop being Kildare Town.
This is the “Lexington” of Ireland. Be sure to watch for the horses in the fields alongside the highway. A nice stop for lunch is the Silken Thomas, right off of the main market square in Kildare Town. (However, if you had gotten an early start, and I recommend it so you will get into Limerick early, skip lunch here and have lunch somewhere along the road between Kildare Town and Limerick.) Take the time to walk around the town center a bit and visit St. Brigid’s Cathedral and the 108-foot high round tower. Climb to the top for a great view of the surrounding area.
If you are into horses or horse racing, take the time to visit the National Stud (The Irish National Stud), the center of Ireland’s racing industry, and the National Stud Horse Museum. Your ticket into the museum will also get you into the nearby Japanese Gardens. I believe the gardens are about the finest of their type in Europe. To get to the Japanese Gardens just watch for the sign to the left of market square in Kildare Town. The gardens are a little over 2 miles south. Leave Kildare Town area, again on the N7, for the drive to Limerick.
Plan to arrive at your hotel in Limerick in the early afternoon so you can see a little of the area after you freshen up a bit in your room. (In Limerick I like Greenhills (061\453033) as it is a nice, friendly, family-run hotel. There is also a rather new Jurys Inn located here.) Normally when I am in Limerick I just find a small restaurant or pub. I really do not have any recommendations. However, if you like Chinese, the Jasmine Palace is good.
After you freshen up a bit you could either walk around the town center some or take this road trip. Plan about two or three hours for the drive and then get back into town for dinner and a little pub hopping. (Limerick)
Limerick Area Drive
Leave Limerick via the R463/R465 and then take the turn off for the R463 through Killaloe which will take you along the Lough Derg. This is a very pretty drive and I am sure you will enjoy it. When you reach the R352 just short of Scarriff, turn left towards Tulla and Ennis/Inis. Watch for the signs to the Craggaunowen Project and to Knappague Castle Either, or both of these, is a nice stop for a few minutes. The castle has been extensively restored and furnished in the 15th-century style. Craggaunowen, another castle and tower house, is from the 16th-century. And, even if they are closed, you will find them interesting to see and the drive enjoyable. (Craggaunowen)
Find your way to the R462 again and head south towards Kilmurry. Then, when you reach the N18, watch for the signs to Bunratty Castle and Folk Park. I believe Bunratty closes about 4:00. However, they have some interesting Medieval banquets and if they are having them while you are there, you may want to go there for dinner this evening. Better check early and make reservations. (Bunratty Castle)
Now, back to the hotel (N18 gets you back into Limerick.) and either an evening walk through the town center or checking out a few of the pubs. Several of the pubs have traditional music on different nights of the week. Among those that do, that I am aware of, includes The Locke (my favorite), Nancy Blake’s, and Foley’s.
Limerick to Killarney with an overnight in Killarney.
(NOTE: While many people would opt to spend two nights in Killarney, I have suggested you spend two nights in the little town of Kenmare. It is much less crowded and you will not encounter nearly as much of the “touristy stuff” as you will in Killarney.)
I hope you got a nice sleep as I am going to give you a very busy day with a lot to see. So, get up early, have breakfast, and get an early start. You will be glad you did. Especially if it is a nice clear day.
Leave Limerick on the N69. Just after you pass through Askeaton, where you can find the ruins of a 15th-century Franciscan friary, the road becomes quite scenic as you travel alongside of the River Shannon. Soon you will be in Glin where you will find Glin Castle. Stay on the N69 to Tarbert where the highway turns south towards Listowel, a small market town. Be sure to not take a lot of time going through these areas as the best part of the day is still to come.
Soon you will be in Tralee where you will probably want to get out and stretch your legs. However, it should still be mid-morning, if you got that early start, and you should not be tempted to eat lunch just yet. Get back into the car and take the N86 to Anascaul. This is a wonderful drive and I am sure you will love it. This drive will lead you out onto the Dingle Peninsula where you will be spending most of the rest of the day arriving in Killarney in the early evening. Make sure you have a hotel reservation in Killarney. Soon after you drive out of Tralee you will be in Blennerville where you will probably want to take a picture or two of the five-story windmill with its black and white sails. Also, you will probably want to take a little time to walk through the visitor center with the crafts and workshops located there. However, don’t forget that you will want to try to be in Dingle by lunch time - at least 1:00 p.m.
When you reach Annascaul you should take the time to snap a picture of Dan Foley’s wonderfully painted pub And perhaps have a pint. From here, just stay on the road to Dingle where you will probably have lunch. My favorite place is Doyle’s Seafood Bar and Town House. (By-the-way, plaice is flounder and you will find it on many of the menus in Ireland prepared several different ways.)
I am not even going to try to map out the rest of your afternoon on the Dingle Peninsula. Instead I will just give you several suggestions for things to see and do. Just check with to locals if you cannot find any of them. In Dingle, or Dingle Town as the locals refer to it, you might want to do a little shopping. If so, visit The Weaver’s Shop on Green Street and Casai on Strand Street for Irish crafts.
About 5 miles west of Dingle (R561) is Dunbeg, an iron-age fort. It is located near Ventry. You should watch along side of the road along here for the
clochans, “prehistoric beehive huts,” that were used as shelter for monks in the early Christian period. You will find the most of them between Dunquin and Slea Head. And, further along a few miles, is Slea Head where from the tops of the cliffs you can look out over the Atlantic Ocean for a spectacular view of the Basket Islands.
As you continue along the road you will soon come to the town of Dunquin, about 5 miles west of Ventry on R559. Here you will really feel as though are in a very foreign country as many of the people here speak the native language. Be sure to see the dock area and pier for some wonderful photo opportunities. From Dunquin you will head towards Ballyferriter. Along the way you will want to stop for a view of Clogher Strand and watch as the ocean pounds against the rocks. Watch also for Louis Malcahy’s Pottery Studio, which is also worth a visit.
In the Ballyferriter area you might want to visit Kilmakedar Church and the Gallarus Oratory. Both date from the 7th-century and are very interesting to see. You may also want to visit the fortress of Dun an Oir. You may have the urge to make the drive to Mt Brandon. However, if you do not have the time, not to worry as you will be able to see similar scenery when you do the Ring of Kerry in a couple of days. From here you should find your way back to Dingle and then go back the way you came (the N86) to just before Anascaul where you should look for the signs for the R561 and head toward Castlemaine. Stay on the R561 through Castlemaine to the N22 where you will turn south (right) to Killarney.
Some overnight suggestions for Killarney along with some restaurants I like would include Kathleen’s Country House (064\32810), a little outside of town, but a nice place to stay with a friendly owner and staff; the Arbutus (064/31037), located right in town and family run for about 60 years (Both of these places are very nicely priced and a good value.); and Foley’s (064/31217), right in the center of town and also a good place to eat, a little more expensive than my first two suggestions. These are the only ones I am familiar with but others have recommended the following to me, Europe, Castlerosse, the Killeen House, and the Beaufort House. One of my favorite places to eat here is Sheila’s. It is not fancy, just has good food. I love the Irish stew here and the corned beef with cabbage. You probably will not find many Americans eating here. There are dozens of restaurants and pubs in town so you should not have any problems finding someplace to eat.
As for some things to do in Killarney, I will give them to you for tomorrow morning as you can sleep in a bit tomorrow (See, I can be nice), do the town, have lunch in Killarney, and then make the short drive to Kenmare in the afternoon planning to arrive in Kenmare by at least 3:00 so you can enjoy the wonderful shopping and walking in Kenmare. I think you will be glad you spent only one night in the very busy and touristy Killarney and opt for the much more quiet Kenmare to spend two nights. (Kenmare Visitor Information)
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Killarney to Kenmare with two overnights in Kenmare. If you have taken my advice you are now on your way to Kenmare. I am going to assume that you perhaps stayed in Killarney for lunch and are traveling to Kenmare in the early afternoon. And, as we want to leave the Ring of Kerry for tomorrow, I will be giving you an interesting route that normally you might not take to get to Kenmare. (Ring of Kerry Information and Links) Leave Killarney on the N22 south. When you reach the intersection of the N22 and the R569 you have a decision to make. First, the quickest way to Kenmare from here is to take the R569 through Kilgarvan right into Kenmare. And, if it is late afternoon, this is what I would suggest. However, it you think you have the time, or if you have left Killarney in the morning and have already opted to take the alternate route through Glengarriff and stop in Glengarriff for lunch, take this route from the intersection of the N22 and the R569. Continue south on the N22 to Macroom where you will turn onto the R584 to Glengarriff. This road is especially scenic and the drive through the Pass of Keimaneigh is very nice. Soon you will arrive at the N71 where you will turn north (right) to Glengarriff. This is an area that is quite different than the rest of this part of Ireland. In fact, as you descend into Glengarriff you will actually almost feel as though you are entering an almost subtropical area as many subtropical plants thrive here. Throughout this area you will find several shops and such and a restaurant or two. And, if you have the time, and can negotiate a price (Do not pay over L10 and normally somewhere between L5 and L8 will do.) you can take the boat trip over to Garnish Island (Garnish Island) and see the Italian Gardens. It is only about a 10 minute boat ride. (NOTE: If you do not want to do this at this time I have placed this little side-trip at another location farther down the drive.) Continue north on the N7 over the mountains and through the tunnel to Kenmare. Or, if you still have a little time (Better plan on a minimum of 3 hours for this drive as you will be wanting to get out and enjoy the views a lot.) and want to enjoy another beautiful drive, take the R572 around the Beara Peninsula. However, I will assume that you have decided to just continue on to Kenmare. |
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Once you arrive in Kenmare and check into your hotel (I like the Lansdowne Arms Hotel, tel. +353-64-41368, and I also think they have a web site. Check through your search engine.) you should have plenty of time to walk around the town and shop in the interesting shops such as the Woolen Shop, Nostalgia, Cleo’s, and Black Abbey Crafts. After your fill of shopping stop in at D’Arcy’s Old Bank House for dinner. Try the pan-fried beef with mushrooms in a pastry or the breast of chicken and salmon with prawn sauce or just about anything else on the menu that looks good to you. And whatever you have, be sure to end the meal with some of their wild heather, honey, and lavender ice cream! After dinner you might want to stop in at one of the many pubs in town. A couple of them offer some good entertainment. However, do not stay out too late as you will have a full day tomorrow and you can always come back again tomorrow evening after you finish our tour of the “Ring.”
After breakfast you will head out for your drive around the Ring of Kerry. Leave Kenmare west along the Kenmare River on the N70. Your first stop will be in the little town of Sneem, one of the prettiest villages in Ireland. You will want to get out and do a little walking and shopping here. It is also a good place for a morning coffee. (Sneem)
Continue around the ring to Castlecove where you should watch for the signs (or get directions to) Staigue Fort. This is a great example of an Iron Age stone fort. Although you have to cross private land to get to the fort, this should not be a problem. However, you should be prepared to pay a small “compensation for trespass” to the landowner. I guess everyone is entitled to make a little money.
Your next village is Caherdaniel where you may want to take the time to visit the Derrynane House and Abbey. The house with its lovely garden and over 300-acre estate forms Derrynane National Park. The south and east wings of the house are open for tours.
Next comes the wonderful area around Cahirciveen. This town is the western edge of the ring and there is a nice restaurant here where you can enjoy lunch as you look out over the Dingle Bay. You may want to stop at the Old Oratory, a former church on the main street that is now a gift shop. The Cahirciveen Heritage Center makes another interesting stop.
The road between Cahirciveen and Glenbeigh will be one of the highlights of your drive. On one side are the spectacular views of Dingle Bay and the jagged peaks of the Dingle Peninsula (if you can see them for the cloud), while on the other side of the road are the wonderful green hills dotted with sheep. (Dingle Peninsula) When you reach the area around Kells watch for the signs for the Kells Sheep Centre. It should be on your right. This is a must stop as you will never have an opportunity like this again. You will be introduced to all of the sheep of the area and then have an opportunity to see the sheep dogs work the flock. This is a very interesting stop and one many people often miss. Don’t be one of them! (The Kells Sheep Centre)
In Glenbeigh you will want to make a stop at the Kerry Bog Village Museum. This outdoor museum offers you a chance to see how people in this area lived in the early 1800s as you walk though several reconstructed, fully furnished cottages. And, after visiting the village, you can stop in at the Red Fox Inn for some refreshments or Irish coffee.
The last stop on the ring before Killarney is Killorglin. Just follow the ring signs and the signs directing you to Killarney. You have already been in Killarney so I will not give you any more information at this time. However, you do not want to spend a lot of time here as you still have the rest of the ring to traverse. Just get through town as quickly as possible and don’t even stop for a coffee. You can have a little break at your next stop.
Leave Killarney on the N71 south with your first stop being Muckross House and Gardens. You can relive the past of Ireland here as you tour the house, grounds and gardens, and perhaps even take the time to visit the Traditional Farm located here. This is a very interesting stop so you will want to plan on about an hour here. You can also have a tea or coffee while you are here. (Muckross House)
Continue up the winding road, being especially careful if it is raining or misty, to Ladies’s View. From here you can get a magnificent view of three lakes and much of the peninsula. The name comes from a visit when Queen Victoria was a guest at Muckross House. Her ladies-in-waiting went up to this spot and found it to be spectacular and since then it has been called Ladies’s View.
Continue up the mountain road to your last great vista, Molls Gap. Hopefully Avoca Handweavers will be open where you can purchase woolen clothing and mohair rugs and throws. While you are out of the car and looking out over the valley below, walk past the hand weavers shop up the small rise (Follow the Ring of Kerry sign - N71.) and just a little past the rise you can get another great view looking out over the valleys and hills towards Kenmare. There is not anywhere to park for this view so you will have to walk there from Molls Gap. In fact, there is hardly a place to pull off to the side of the road after you leave Molls Gap and begin the drive down the side of the mountain until you arrive in Kenmare.
I hope you enjoyed your drive around the ring. Tomorrow you will leave the Kenmare area to begin your drive back to Dublin. Your first stop will be in Blarney so you can visit castle and kiss that famous stone. Blarney Castle
Kenmare to Cork with an overnight in Blarney.
For the quick way to Cork and Blarney, leave Kenmare on the R569 and take it over to the N22 and make your way to Cork and Blarney. If you take this route you may want to take the side-trip at Macroom. Just turn at Macroom on the R618 through Coachford. This is a very pretty drive and will take you into Cork also. Just watch for the signs for Blarney along the way. (Macroom-Cork Guide)
A much more interesting trip would be to leave Kenmare heading south on the N71 and follow this road to where it meets the R584 (about 8 miles past Glengarriff) and take this road through the Pass of Keimaneigh over to Macroom, and then continue on to Cork either on the N71 or the R618. If you take this route you should take the time while you are in Glengarriff to visit Garnish Island. It is about a 10-minute boat trip from the mainland, but well worth the time and effort!
In the Cork area my favorites for overnights are the Victoria Lodge B&B and Rochestown Park. For dining try the Café Paradiso, Farmgate Café (very nice, I think) or in Blarney at the Blarney Castle Restaurant ( I think !) That may not be the name, but to find it, from the parking lot near the woolen mills, stand with your back to the front door of the woolen mills and walk to your right to the first street, turn left, and the restaurant is about a block along on your left. Very interesting little restaurant. You will probably be glad you took the time to find it.
Of course while you are here you will visit the Blarney Woolen Mills, and Blarney Castle. If you do not want to wait in the normally long line to kiss the stone, enjoy the walk around the grounds that surround the castle. The walk will take about 45 minutes to an hour.
Cork to Kilkenny with an overnight near Kilkenny.
From Cork take the N8 through Fermoy to Cashel where you might want to take the time to stop for lunch and visit the Rock of Cashel. The most interesting way to get to the Rock is along Bishops Walk. The walk begins near the Cashel Palace Hotel, just ask for directions. For lunch I would suggest the Spearman Restaurant. It is hard to find (It is located on Main Street sort of hidden away in the center of Cashel behind the
TIO. Ask for directions.) but the food is wonderful. You will be glad you took the time to find it!
From Cashel take the R691 through the countryside to past Ballingarry where it will meet up with the N76 which will take you into Kilkenny. This is a small road but it will really give you a chance to see the wonderful Irish countryside.
In Kilkenny you might want to visit the following: St. Canine’s Cathedral, the ruins of the Black Abbey, and the Kilkenny Castle. The Rate House is rather interesting as is Kyteler’s Inn. And, if you are interested, you can drive out and visit Dunmore Cave. But even if all that you do is walk around the city center of this very interesting medieval town you will enjoy yourself. Just walk and explore on your own. (Kilkenny)
Suggestions for meals would include the Lacken House, have the salmon, (also good for an overnight) and the Ristorante Rinuccini where I enjoy the homemade pasta or spaghetti. For your overnight I would suggest the Newpark Hotel. Or perhaps better yet, the Butler House.
Kilkenny to Dublin overnight somewhere along the Irish Sea
Leave your hotel this morning (I am going to assume you spent the night in
Kilkenny) and take the R700 to Thomastown and then on to New Ross. Just past Thomastown the road becomes quite scenic and you should enjoy the drive. Plan to be in New Ross in time for lunch where you can enjoy lunch on the Galley Cruising Restaurant (Be sure to make reservations ahead if you plan to do this. Call 051\421723.) where you can enjoy the tranquil farmlands along the river bank while enjoying lunch. You can also plan this trip for afternoon tea. You will also want to stop at the Butlersland Craft Centre in New Ross for some good Irish items to add to your selection of things to take back to friends or relatives. Or, just to keep for yourself.
From New Ross continue south on the R733 to Ballyhack where you will want to visit Dunbrody Abbey and Dunbrody Castle. If you did not eat in New Ross on the boat, try the Neptune Restaurant here and have grilled salmon. Leave Ballyhack heading east toward
Wellington Bridge where you will turn south on the R736 and follow this road to the R739 where you will turn south again (right) to Kilmore Quay. If you have the time you may want to visit the Saltee Islands, Ireland’s largest bird sanctuary. However, this will take at least a half day. Do visit the Kilmore Quay Maritime Museum while you are here and do some shopping at Country Crafts. You should enjoy this old-fashioned seaside village of thatched and white washed cottages.
Leave Kilmore Quay the way you came until you reach the R736 where you will turn east again towards Rossiare Harbour, which is one of the busiest ports in Ireland. Head north from here on the N25 a few miles until you see the signs for Rossiare. You should make the short side trip into Rossiare, especially if you should decide to spend the night here. I would recommend Kelly’s. It is a very nice place with a rustic decor that sits right on the beach and would make an excellent last night for your trip. The food at the restaurant there is also very good! If you do not overnight here you may want to spend the night in Wexford. It is a larger town and there are several nice places to stay including Ferrycarrig, which is right in the town center, or the Horetown House, which is outside of town about 20 minutes.
Either way, an overnight on the beach or in Wexford, you will want to spend a little time in Wexford. This is one of the oldest places in the country and was even mentioned as early as the 2nd century by Ptolemy. This is a great little town for a waking tour and you can find a guide, if you like, on the waterfront at Crescent Quay. Guide or not some of the things you might want to see would include the Selskar Abbey, the Thomas Moore Home, Westgate Towerr, the Wexford Bull Ring, the Franciscan Church, and of course, do a little shopping along the main street.
You should then head for the Irish National Heritage Park. Plan to have several hours here while you travel through about 9,000 years of Irish history. This is an open-air history museum and theme park and you will long remember your visit. Close by is Oak Tavern, a great place for lunch.
As it is finally time to make the drive back to Dublin, leave the area on the N11 and follow it all the way back to Dublin. If you have left yourself any time you might enjoy a stop at the Arklow Pottery Factory in Arklow. And, if you do not have time for that, at least stop at the Stone Oven Bakery on Lower Main Street for some wonderful sweets. Get some sandwiches to carry away along with their wonderful hazelnut-chocolate triangles!
I hope you have enjoyed your trip!
When you return try to take the time to contact me and let me know anything you did that you found especially enjoyable. I am always looking for good hotels, bed and breakfast location, restaurants, and interesting things to see and do. Thanks, Jim
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