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Return to Belgium
A Walk Through Brussels
Brussels is a great city for walking and here is a walk that will take your from the Grand Place past the Mannekin Pis, around the Notre Dame de la Capelle, through the magnificent Palais de Justice, past the Notre Dame au Sablon, along the shopping street of the Place du Grand Sablon, and back to the Grand Place. This is a great walk for anyone who only has a day to see Brussels and one should plan from two to three hours for the walk, depending upon how much time is spent looking at the sights or shopping along the Place du Grand
Sablon.
Before you begin the walk you probably should have a good guide book. Two that I like are Fodor's The Netherlands, Belgium and Luxembourg and Frommer's Belgium Holland & Luxembourg. You can order either of these books from my web site Getting Away With Jim Bruner.
Click here to order a copy of Fodor's The Netherlands, Belgium, and Luxembourg
or
Click here to order a copy of Frommer's Belgium, Holland, & Luxembourg
All of the "walking instructions" will be done in bold italics. So, wherever you see anything in bold italicss you will want to make sure you are paying attention to the directions as to which direction and where you should walking, where and which direction to turn, and such. The walk is leisurely and there are no steep places or uneven footing. I hope you will enjoy the walk.
The Grand Place
The Grand Place, or Grote Markt in Flemish, dates back to the Middle Ages to about the 12th century. The ancient City Hall, now the Hotel de Ville and Town Hall, the beautiful houses of medieval guilds, and the King's House, or Maison du Roi, form the permitter in a wonderful display of Gothic and Baroque architecture. Today it is filled with cafes, restaurants, shops, and flower vendors. On Sunday there is a bird market and there are numerous special days in the square.
I challenge anyone to walk into the Grand Place for the first time without a short gasp at the splendor of this impressive sight. The square is completely surrounded by huge buildings with facades of ornamentation and statuary and the square itself is filled with the hubbub of daily commerce and, of course, tourists. I believe the best way to enter the Grand Place is up the narrow rue Colline from the small square on rue de la Montagne. In fact I normally stay in a small hotel on this square (the Hotel La Madeleine) that is right around the corner from the Galleries St. Hubert as, although it is not the best of hotels in the city, the price is right and the location is wonderful. But, back to the tour. I will assume you are now standing at the foot of the Grand Palace near where rue Colline enters the square. You will know you are in the right place if the Godiva chocolate shop is on your right.
Immediately across the Grand Place and a little to your right is an impressive building with a high tower. This is the Hotel de Ville and Town Hall. Walk across the Grand Place towards the Town Hall and you will see an entrance, or passageway, directly under the tower that will take you into a small courtyard and into the Town Hall. Although this is not really a museum as such, you should go inside to see the impressive chambers in which the City Council convenes. The walls are hung with wonderful tapestries and huge paintings. There is no admission and the building is open Tuesday through Friday from 9:30 to 5. After visiting the Town Hall, step back into the square and through the arch to the Grand Place, turn right, and walk the few steps to the entrance of the Hotel de Ville. This is the location of the main Brussels Tourist Information Bureau so you may want to stop in. Or, go in if you would like just to see where I do not stay while in Brussels! My pocket book is just a little short of this place.
As you exit the Hotel de Ville you will see another impressive building directly across the Grand Place. This is the Maison du Roi or King's House and the location of the Musee Communal or Museum of the City of Brussels. Walk directly across the Grand Place to the King's House and enter the museum. Inside you will find exhibits that trace the development of Brussels and some wonderful collections of porcelain and ceramics. The museum is free and the hours are Monday through Friday, 10 to 5.
After your visit to the museum, walk to your right from the museum just a few steps and you will come to my favorite place for lunch in the Grand Place, the Restaurant El Greco. If it is time for lunch, stop - if not, remember it for when you finish your walk. However, you don't have to feel compelled to have lunch here. I just like it because the food is reasonably priced and pretty good and I enjoy eating in the Grand Place. If you would like to do a quick exploration of other places to have lunch before you decide where you want to eat, or eat somewhere off of the square, turn back to the street you have just passed, rue Chair et Pain, turn to your left and continue along this street, cross rue du Marche aux Herbes and continue along Petite rue des Bouchers to rue des Bouchers. This is probably the center of dining in Europe - or at least it seems that way. If you find a place you like (you will find several restaurants here that feature mussels), have lunch or save it for later. But, back to the beginning of our tour.
If you checked out the restaurants along the rue des Bouchers, go back the way you came to the Grand Place again, cross the Grand Place to the small street that is located just to the left of the Hotel de Ville. You should now be at the entrance of rue Charles Buls. This is where our walking tour actually begins. Just to make sure you have "good luck" on your walk (this is a tradition), you will want to walk under the arch to your left and rub the bas-relief of Everard t' Serclaes, the 14th century hero who defiled the Court of Flanders and freed the city.
Continue walking along the rue Charles Bules. When you reach the Hotel Amigo, on your right at the next corner, you may want to stop and look back to your right for an interesting picture of the city hall. This angle gives you a little different perspective. As you walk along rue Charles Bules you will see numerous shops where fine Belgian lace is sold. The purchase of a small piece of lace, say a rose or a butterfly, makes a great souvenir of your visit. Just take it home and have it mounted in a small frame with a velvet colored background to match the colors of your bathroom or bedroom. I always prefers souvenirs of this type rather than the mass-produced junk you seem to find in most of the souvenir shops. Pat and I (Pat is my wife) have these types of souvenirs all over our home and none of them have a stamp on the bottom saying "Souvenirs of ????" Rue Charles Bules becomes rue de I'Etuve at rue de I'Amigo. Continue walking straight ahead along the rue de I'Etuve and soon you will arrive at the famous statue of Manneken-Pis.
Manneken-Pis
This little bronze statuette is probably on the top of just about everyone's "must see" list. The true story of "Little Julian" has been lost, but there have been several explanations for this controversial statue that has been here, in one form or another (At one time the statuette was made of sugar!) for centuries. Back in the Museum of the City of Brussels in the Grand Place you can see a collection of some of the over 500 costumes that have been given to Brussels for Julian. This tradition was begun when Louis XV of France presented a colorful costume to the city. The original statuette was created in he 15th century and was replaced in 1619 by the bronze you see today that was done by Jerome Dusquesnoy.
You continue your walk from here by turning to your left (with Manneken-Pis on your left) and walking up the street, the rue du Chene. You will notice that you are now on a very old street covered with cobblestones. You will pass two small streets on your right, Impasse and rue de Viliers, and you will then around a small curve to your right to the rue de Dinart and walk uphill along the rue de Dinart. Just a little ways ahead, and to your right, is the rue des Alexiens. Walk to your right at this corner a few steps and you will come to the Villers Tower. As you walk down this small street to where it abruptly turns to the right, cross over the street and look up at the ancient 12th century ruins of the old city walls and the Villers Tower. There is a very small park-like area with a few benches along side this ancient wall.
Turn back the way you came and walk to the corner. Just before you reach the corner you will see a private residence (No. 41) with a 17th century doorway and a plaque recalling its historic origin. When you reach the corner of rue de Dinart, walk to your right again along rue de Dinart to rue des Alexiens. There will be a small park and square on your left as you cross rue des Alexiens. When you reach the other side of the street, walk to your left to the next corner, Boulevard de I'Empereur.
Here on the corner is a tea room and pastry shop and you may want to get some refreshment and perhaps cross over the street to the Place de Dinant for a restful pause in your walk. You will find some benches under the trees and flowers of this small plaza area.
Being careful, as the Boulevard de I'Empereur is a very busy thoroughfare, cross over the Boulevard de I'Empereur to the rue de la Chapelle. As you cross the street you should look to your left and you can see more of the ruins of the old city walls. The Boulevard de I'Empereur ends here and the fork to the right becomes the rue des Ursulines and the fork to the left is rue de la Chapelle. You want to be on the rue de la Chapelle.
Notre Dame de la Chapelle
You should now be walking along the left-hand side of rue de la Chapelle with the church on your left. When you reach the next corner, turn left and you will be at the entrance of the church. The Notre Dame de la Chapelle is located on the site of a baptistry that was founded by Godfrey I, the Duke of Brabant in 1134. The church you see now was begun in 1190 in this Romanesque style. The Gothic nave was added in the XVth century and topped with the Baroque cupola in 1699. So, as you can see, the church is really a composite of some very different architectural styles. Inside the church is an epitaph to Bruegel, the Elder, who was buried here in 1569.
Leave the church by walking to your left and crossing the street. On your right you should see an interesting antique shop that is filled with quality antique furniture and lamps. You will pass more of these shops during your walk, but you are welcome to browse a bit before you continue. Continue along this street. You will pass the rue Blaes on your right. If it is early morning there will be an outdoor market in the Place de la Chapelle on our left. As you walk along this area you should know that this is a residential area of working-class people of Brussels. When you reach the next corner, rue Haute, cross the street (rue Haute) and walk to your right along rue Haute.
You are now in the center of the area known as Les Marolles, the old working-class quarter of the city. You will find this area filled with a maze of small streets and filled with stores, Greek and Spanish restaurants, and little shops as well as homes. Continue along rue Haute and just past Porte Rouge (the street on your left) there is a small restaurant ant tearoom and pastry shop with pretty good strawberry tarts. If you bought one you can eat it in the small Peter Bruegel Square, just past rue de I'Epee, where there are a few benches and flowers. This is also a good place to see the massive Palace of Justice which you will visit in just a few minutes. And just a little further up the street, on the other side of the street, are some Spanish restaurants. Along the same side of the street on which you are waling (the left-hand side) there are some small cafes just before you reach Faucon street.
(NOTE: If you are making this walk on a weekday between 7 a.m and 3 p.m. you can turn to your right here along the rue des Renards and walk one block to the Place du jeu de Balle where there is a daily flea market.
The Palais de Justice and Place Poelaert
When you reach Faucon turn left and walk up the street to the steps on your left. The steps are just past the restaurant Au Beuree Blanc. As you climb the stairs you will be entering the "upper" city of Brussels. When you reach the top of the stairs you will cross the street and look for the ramp to your left that leads up to the Palais de Justice. Walk up the ramp to the top. When you reach the top there will be an entrance to the Palace of Justice. If you would like to see what the inside of the building looks like, go up the stairs and through the doors. Inside you will find even more stairs. Make your away ahead to the center of the building where you can walk to your left and exit the building at the front of the building in the Place Poelaert. If you do not want to go inside of the building, walk to your left when you reach the top of the ramp to where you will see some telescopes on your left. You are now at a much higher elevation and this provides you with a nice panoramic view of Brussels.
You are now standing in the Place Poelaert with a great view of "downtown" Brussels and the spire of the Town Hall. Behind you is the impressive Palais de Justice. This impressive building has towered over the skyline of Brussels since the mid-19th century. The dome is over 340 feet above the square and the huge foyer inside of the building leads to almost 250 offices and over two dozen courtrooms. This place is actually larger than St. Peter's in Rome. Visitors are invited to tour and guided tours are free. Just go up the steps and into the front of the building. You will find an information area on your right as you enter the structure.
Leaving the Place Poelaert you will want to cross over (I should say "under" as there is a subway leading from the Place Poelaert to the other side of the street.) the
rue de la Regence to the memorial from the British people to the Belgians in gratitude for aid to British prisoners and wounded soldiers. The memorial will be directly ahead and to your right as you exit the subway.
From the memorial you will walk to your left, and downhill, along side the right-hand side of rue de la Regence. Just past rue J. Dupont is a synagogue and then the Conservatory of Music at the next corner. Continue across this street and you are at the Place du Petie-Sablon, a delightful little miniature park encircled with statuettes representing the medieval guilds. In the center of the park is a pool, benches, flowers, and greenery and statues of the Counts Egmont and Hornes.
Notre Dame au Sablon
With your back to the park, cross the street and you will be at the Notre Dame au Sablon.
This beautiful Gothic church was built by the crossbowmen of the city in the XVth century. You really need to go inside of this wonderful church so you can see the marvelous stained glass windows. The church is open monday through Saturday from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. And, if you will be in the city after dark, come back when the lights are on in the church. It is beautiful from the outside at night. From the Notre Dame au Sablon you will want to continue down the street into the Place du Grand-Sablon.
Place de Grand-Sablon
The Place de Grand-Sablon is filled with shops and restaurants. Les Jardines du Sablon is a gallery area with shops that includes antiques and art along with a few restaurants. In this area you will also find the Museum of Poste & Telegraph. You may want to spend a few minutes in this area as you explore the shops in the square and along the small streets leading into the Place de Grand-Sablon. At the far end of the square, the side opposite the church, you will find the Fountain of Minerva. This was done in 1715 by Jacques Berge. At the fountain there are five streets that converge on the Place de Grand-Sablon. Look for rue de Rollebeek and walk along this street to the large traffic circle area. Along the Rollebeek, a nice and picturesque pedestrian street, you will find some very nice shops, cafes, antique and art shops and galleries, and a coffee bar. When you reach the large traffic street you will want to walk to your right just a bit. On your right with be the Tour d'Angle, ruins of the city walls of the XIIth century.
With the Tour d'Angle at your back, cross over the street and enter the rue de I'Escalier. The small street of Dinant will be to your left and you will be in the Vielle Malle aux bles. Here you will walk along the curve of the rue de I'Escalier to your right which will lead you to the Place St. Jean. You will know you are in the right place as there will be a statue dedicated to Gabrielle Petit, shot by the German Army in 1916, in the center of the Place St. Jean. Also, there are 7 streets leading into the Place St. Jean.
Cross over the place St. Jean to the rue des Eperroniers, I believe it is the third street on your left. The rue des Eperroniers, or the Street of the Spurmakers, has several nice stores that sell books, prints, and music as well as several ethnic restaurants including Chinese, Vietnamese, and Indian. When you reach the next street, Marche aux Fromages, turn to your left and walk along this street of Greek food, fruits, and snacks. When you reach Chapeliers, turn right and in just a few steps you are back in the Grand Place. If you are not - ask someone where the heck you are!
If you have waited to have lunch for now, you can either eat in the small Greek restaurant I mentioned earlier or continue to the area of rue des Bouchers. If you are going to the rue des Bouchers, continue straight ahead from this point with the open Grand Place to your left and the buildings to your right and enter the small street of Colline again. This is the corner with the Godiva shop on your left as you enter the street. Continue along this street to the end. Here you will see a little square on your right with an ice cream shop and rue du Marche aux Herbes to your left. Cross over rue du March aux Herbes and enter the glass-topped Galeries St. Hubert.
The elegant Galeries St. Hubert was the first covered shopping arcade in Europe. It was built in the mid-19th century and offers an exceptional quality of merchandise such as jewelry and Brussels lace. You will also find a few restaurants along here. But the majority of the restaurants will be found at the next street, rue des Bouchers which is just to your right about half-way through the covered area of the St. Hubert.
I trust you have enjoyed your walk through Brussels. There are, of course, many other good walks in the wonderful city. Check with the information office or your guide book for additional ideas and suggestions.
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