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Currency Information and Money Matters I have found that it helps to know at least a little bit of the language as I travel in other countries. You do not have to be able to be a fluent speaker, but knowing a few key words and phrases will really help. I have found that, although almost everywhere I go I can find someone who speaks English, knowing just a few words of the local language can really be a help. And, it lets others know I am at least interested in their language. Visit the Getting Away Language Learning Center where you can find out how to learn another language, or where to purchase books, dictionaries, electronic translators, software and more Click here for language helps, dictionaries, electronic translators, language software and other helps for learning a foreign language. Being able to speak at least some of the language in the country you are visiting will help you have a better time and enjoy your trip more. Jim.
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Getting To and Around Tunisia
For Flights, Hotels, Cars, Cruises, Vacations, Tours and Travel Deals, Click on Global Travel International. If the link does not work properly, type www.gettingaway.globaltravel.com in the address line of your browser.
Cap Bon
Peninsula The location of Hammamet is a popular destination for tourists with it's nice position at the northern end of the Gulf of Hammamet. The old medina overlooks a great expanse of sandy beach and is another local draw. It's also a lively town, brimming with discos, restaurants and colorful shops. The biggest difference between Hammamet and its neighbor, Nabeul, is that the latter also has a range of budget accommodation, including the best organized camping area in the country. Be sure to visit Nabeulon Friday for the lively market that is one of the best Tunisia. Kelibia is a small town that survives mainly on its fishing fleet, with a few small, sheltered resorts and beaches and a fabulous 6th century fort that overlooks the harbor. Halfway in between Kelibia and El-Haouaria is the Carthaginian site of Kerkouane, a town founded in the 6th century BC. It had existed for less than 300 years before Roman forces destroyed it. It was excavated in 1962, and a museum houses some interesting finds, such as the 'Princess of Kerkouane,' a wooden sarcophagus cover carved in the shape of the goddess Astarte. The small town of El-Haouaria is tucked beneath the mountainous tip of Cap Bon. This is a nice quiet spot with some nice beaches, especially the one at Ras el-Drek. The main attractions are the Roman Caves on the coast about two miles west of town. Much of the stone used for building Carthage was cut from this remarkable complex of yellow sandstone caves - the quarriers discovered that the quality of stone was much better at the base of the cliffs than on the surface, so they chose to tunnel into the cliffs rather than cut them down. After almost 1000 years of quarrying, the result is the caves we see today. CarthageCarthage has a fascinating history as it held a position of dominance in the ancient world. However, the Romans did such a thorough job demolishing it that the ruins today are a bit of a disappointment. There are six main sights, but they are difficlult to visit as they are spread out over a wide area. The best way to see it all is by taking the TGM (light rail) line that runs through the middle of the area. Even then, there is quite a bit of walking. The best place to start is Byrsa Hill, which dominates the area and gives a good view of the whole site from its peak. At its base is the Cathedral of St Louis, visible for miles around. It was built by the French in 1890 and dedicated to the 13th century saint-king who died on the shores of Carthage in 1270 during the ill-fated 8th Crusade. Though it was deconsecrated and closed for years, its has now been restored and is open to the public. The National Museum is the large white building at the back of the cathedral, and its recently revamped displays are well worth a look. The Punic displays upstairs are especially good. The Roman amphitheatre on the west side of the Byrsa is about a 15-minute walk from the museum. It is said to have been one of the largest in the Empire, though little of its grandeur remains today. Most of its stones were stolen for other building projects in later centuries. The collection of huge cisterns north-east of the amphitheatre were the main water supply for Carthage during the Roman era. The Antonine Baths are right down on the waterfront and are impressive more for their size and location than for anything else. The Magon Quarter is another archaeological park near the water, a few blocks south of the baths. Recent excavations have revealed an interesting residential area. The Sanctuary of Tophet created a great deal of
excitement when it was first excavated in 1921 and has gone on to elicit a fair
amount of 'excited' prose since then. The Tophet was a sacrificial site with an
associated burial ground, where the children of Carthaginian nobles were killed
and roasted to appease the deities Baal Hammon and Tanit. The site itself is not
so thrilling today - it's little more than a patch of overgrown weeds with a few
excavated pits.
Carthage The Roman ruins at Dougga, located about 65 miles southwest of Tunis, are about the most spectacular and best preserved in the country. They are on the edge of the Tebersouk Mountains, overlooking the fertile wheat-growing valley of the Oued Kalled. The site was occupied until the early 1950s when the residents were moved to help preserve the ruins. There's a lot to see at Dougga, but best seen with the help of a licensed guide. The first monument you'll see is the 3500-seat theatre, which was built into the hillside in 188 AD by one of the city's wealthy residents. It has been extensively renovated and makes a spectacular setting for classical drama performances during the Dougga Festival in July and August. Just past the theatre is a walkway that leads to the Temple of Saturn. It is erected on the site of an earlier temple to Baal Hammon. Southwest of the theatre, a winding street leads down to the Square of the Winds, where the paving is laid out like an enormous compass and lists the names of the 12 winds. Another temple borders the square to the north, while the market and capitol lie to the south and west, respectively. The capitol is a remarkable monument and one of the
finest in Tunisia. Six enormous, fluted columns
support the portico, which rises almost twenty-five feet above ground. The frieze has an
unusually unweathered carving depicting the emperor Antonius Pius being carried
off in an eagle's claws. Inside there once was an enormous statue of Jupiter, fragments of
which are now in the Bardo Museum in Tunis. Nearby, the House of Dionysus &
Ulysses was once a sumptuous residence where within was found the mosaic of Ulysses
mesmerized by the sirens that now resides in the Bardo.
Roman ruins at Dougga There are few sights in Tunisia more arresting than El-Jem, the well-preserved, ancient coliseum - almost as big as its counterpart in Rome - that dwarfs the matchbox buildings of the modern town. Built on a plateau halfway between Sousse and Sfax (about 130 miles south of Tunis), El-Jem can be seen from miles around and completely dominates the area. The coliseum, believed to have been built between 230 and 238 AD, has been used as a defensive position many times in its history. It suffered badly in the 17th century, when the troops of Mohammed Bey blasted a hole in the western wall to flush out local tribesmen who had rebelled against taxation demands. The breach was further widened during an 1850 rebellion, but thankfully the modern emphasis is on preservation and the site is part of the UN's World Heritage List. Its seating capacity has been estimated at 30,000
(considerably more than the population of the town itself), making it one of the
most impressive Roman monuments in Africa. You can still climb up to the top
tiers of seating and gaze down on the arena. It's also possible to explore the
two long underground passageways that once held the animals, gladiators and
other unfortunates destined for the arena.
El-Jem Ruins This world heritage national park, which is located about twenty miles southwest of Bizerte, is an important bird sanctuary, particularly in winter, when the water of Lake Ichkeul and the surrounding marshes are home to more than 200,000 migratory waterfowl from all over Europe. They include large numbers of coot and wigeon and half a dozen other species of duck, as well as rarer birds like the purple gallinule and the park's emblem, the greylag goose. Ichkeul is the only national park in Tunisia with facilities for visitors, although there is no accommodation in the park and camping is not permitted. MahdiaMahdia is one of the few towns on the central Tunisian coast that has managed to escape being turned into a tourist trap. It's a beautifully relaxed place, founded in 916 AD and set on a small peninsula some 125 miles south-east of Tunis. Be sure to visit the fascinating old medina which was once called Mahdia the wealthiest city on the Barbary Coast. A walking tour of the medina will take you about two hours, not counting the time spend meandering through the shops and stopping at one of the several cafes. The Skifa el-Kahla, the massive fortified gate to the medina, is all that remains of the original city and offers great views from its crest. It opens onto the medina's narrow, cobbled main street, Rue Ali Bey, which was once the souq but now comprises a growing number of tourist stalls. Follow it east to Place du Caire where you will find delightfully small square with shady trees, vines and cafes. The ornate arched doorway and octagonal minaret on the southern side of the square belong to the Mosque of Mustapha Hamza, built in 1772 when the square was the centre of the town's Turkish quarter. Continuing east on Rue Ali Bey, the Great Mosque rises into view. Non-Muslims are allowed into the courtyard outside of prayer times. Nearby, you can see the small minaret of the Mosque of Slimane Hamza and continue east toward the Borj el-Kebir, a large 16th century fortress standing on the highest point of the peninsula. Beyond the fort is a cemetery and a lighthouse, near the remains of the old port. MatmataNowhere else in Tunisia is package tourism so totally over the top as it is in the small village of Matmata, a long 250 miles south of Tunis on the south-eastern coast. The pit houses of this troglodyte settlement have long been a favorite stop for tour buses that arrive mid-morning and don't leave until the late afternoon. It's not hard to understand why the buses keep coming because this place is something to see, something almost surreal with a vaguely lunar landscape. In fact, this was the location selected for the desert scenes in the movie Star Wars. The Berbers of the area went underground more than a thousand years ago to escape the extreme heat of summer. Their homes are all nearly identical, with a courtyard dug about twenty feet deep and the rooms tunneled out from the sides. The larger houses have two or three courtyards, and their entrances are usually through a narrow passage from the courtyard to the surface. If you want to see Matmata by yourself (there are guides available), your best bet is to visit the hotels. Arrive in the late afternoon, after the tour buses have left, and go for a walk out beyond the Hôtel Ksar Amazigh. There are good views back over Matmata and north to the valley of the Oued Barrak. Back in town, slake your thirst with a cold one at the Hôtel Sidi Driss' bar (famous as the 'cantina' in Star Wars), then have a quick poke around the Hôtel les Berberes and the Hôtel Marhala, and you will have seen everything worth seeing in town. Sidi Bou SaïdSidi Bou Saïd is a pretty little whitewashed village set high on a cliff above the Gulf of Tunis and is a great place for an afternoon stroll along the narrow cobbled streets with old stone steps. Its gleaming walls are dotted with the ornate, curved window grills that are a local trademark, all painted the same deep blue, and colorful arched doorways that open onto courtyards dappled with geraniums and bougainvillea. The hub of activity in town is the small, cobbled main square, Place Sidi Bou Saïd, which is lined with cafes, sweet stalls and souvenir shops. The lighthouse above the village stands on the site of a 9th century fort. There's a small, relatively uncrowded beach nearby. SousseSousse is Tunisia's third-largest city and a major port and the most popular tourist destination in the country that sports a long beach that stretches north of town to the touristic area of Port el-Kantaoui. However, Sousse has more going for it than the string of resort hotels that line its beach. The old walled medina holds most of the city's attractions. The walls themselves are an impressive sight, stretching about a mile and a half at a height of twenty-five feet. The wall is fortified with a series of solid square turrets. The ribat, a small square fort, was built in the final years of the 8th century AD and features a round watchtower that can be climbed for excellent views over the city. The rather austere Great Mosque, with its turrets and crenellated wall, looks more like a fort than a mosque. The Sousse Museum, occupying the kasbah at the south-western corner of the medina, has some of the most beautiful mosaics in the country. TozeurTozeur is one of the most popular travelers' stops in Tunisia, and has been so since Capsian times (from 8000 BC). Its principal attractions are a labyrinthine old town, a spectacular museum and its enormous palm forest that is on the northern edge of the Chott el-Jerid. It is located about 270 miles southwest of Tunis and getting there is rather interesting. Especially the road from Kebili crosses the chott (dried salt marsh) on a causeway. The city's delightful old quarter, Ouled el-Hadef, was built in the 14th century AD to house the El-Hadef clan, who had grown rich on the proceeds of the caravan trade. The area is a maze of narrow, covered alleys and small squares, and is famous for its traditional brick making methods. Apart from Tunis' Bardo, the Dar Charait Museum is the only museum in the country worth going out of your way to see. It has an extensive collection of pottery and antiques, as well as an art gallery, but its star features are the rooms set up as replicas of Tunisian life, past and present. They include the bedroom of the last bey, a palace scene, a hammam and a Bedouin tent. The museum attendants are all dressed in ancient costumes as servants of the bey. Tozeur's palmeraie is the second largest in the country, with around 200,000 palm trees. It's a classic example of tiered oasis agriculture and is watered by over 200 springs producing more than 60 million liters of water per day. The best way to explore the palmeraie is on foot or by bicycle, which you can rent at the entrance. Tunis is the capital city of the Tunisian Republic and also the site of the Tunis Governorate. In 2004, it had a population of over 700,000 and the population of greater Tunis is approximately two million people. It is situated on the Gulf of Tunis in the Mediterranean and is associated with the port of La Goulette. The city extends along the coastal plain and is surrounded by small hills. At the center of the more modern aspect of the city lies the old medina and beyond this section are the suburban cities of Carthage, La Marsa and Sidi Bou Said. The medina is a dense group of alleyways and covered passages in which travelers and locals can buy goods from the many shops within the area. Additional information can be found at http://www.traveltunis.com. The medina is the historical and cultural heart of modern Tunis and a great place to get a feel for life in the city. You will want to spend some time exploring the medina. It was built during the 7th century AD. One of the oldest of the medina's sights, the Zitouna Mosque was rebuilt in the 9th century on the site of the original 7th century structure. Its builders recycled 200 columns from the ruins of Roman Carthage for the central prayer hall. Be sure to visit the Souq el-Attarine - the Perfume Makers' Souq - where the shops are full of aromatic oils and spices. To the west, the Mosque of Youssef Dey was the first Ottoman-style mosque to be built in Tunis (1616). Also in the medina, the Tourbet el-Bey is a huge mausoleum that houses the remains of many Husseinite beys, princesses, ministers and advisors - the caretaker is a keen tour-giver. Not far off, the Dar Ben Abdallah Museum houses the Centre for Popular Arts & Traditions, where the exhibits seem almost lackluster when seen against the building's majestic backdrop. Also in the area is the Dar el-Haddad, one of the medina's oldest dwellings. The medina was added to the UN's World Heritage List in 1981. The streets of the ville nouvelle are lined with
old French buildings replete with wrought-iron railings and louvered windows,
lending it a very European feel that's heightened by a number of sidewalk cafés
and patisseries. After ogling the colonial architecture, don't skip a visit to
the Cathedral of St Vincent de Paul. Incorporated in its design are an
extrao You should also take the time to visit the Bardo Museum, housed in the former Bardo Palace, which is the official residence of the Husseinite beys. Inside, the collection is broken down into sections that cover the Carthaginian, Roman, early Christian and Arab-Islamic eras. The Roman collection contains one of the finest collection of Roman mosaics and statuary anywhere. The museum is located about two miles west of the city center, an easy taxi or tram ride.
If you have information you believe I should add to this section of Getting Away, please send it to me. mailto:jimbruner@gettingaway.com
Some
Things to See and Do in Tunisia Bird watching is popular in Tunisia. Although the country has relatively few resident species, it is an important stopover for migratory birds. Spring and autumn the best times to go and Ichkeul National Park in the north is one of the best locations. Ballooning and hydroplane flights are two relatively new options for getting above it all that can be arranged from Tozeur and Aghir, respectively.
Ichkeul
National Park Ichkeul is the only national park in Tunisia with
facilities for visitors, although there is no accommodTunis Check the Cities, Towns and Areas of Tunisia for more good ideas for things to see and do.
If you have information you
believe I should add to this section of Getting Away, please send it to me.
mailto:jimbruner@gettingaway.com
Travel Tunis - Tunis is the capital city of the Tunisian Republic and also the site of the Tunis Governorate. In 2004, it had a population of over 700,000 and the population of greater Tunis is approximately two million people. It is situated on the Gulf of Tunis in the Mediterranean and is associated with the port of La Goulette. The city extends along the coastal plain and is surrounded by small hills. At the center of the more modern aspect of the city lies the old medina and beyond this section are the suburban cities of Carthage, La Marsa and Sidi Bou Said. The medina is a dense group of alleyways and covered passages in which travelers and locals can buy goods from the many shops within the area. Additional information can be found at http://www.traveltunis.com.
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Date this page was last edited: Saturday, August 02, 2008 17:10:43
Getting Away With Jim Bruner |